Five o'clock on Friday in the middle of
the first big storm cycle. Winter has engulfed the country, with
Florida the only state on the white and pink map showing no areas of
snowfall within its borders. A slippery, weary commute all that
separates the workforce from its two-day respite while in northern
New Mexico the minds and bodies of an intrepid subset are bent far
from relaxation. Sixteen inches already this week, they collude in
hushed tones, as if the internet were silent and their voices if
raised would reach past the stateline to those looters from Colorado
and spoil the secret. Two feet – could it be true? – still to
come this weekend.
Flat, gray light waning as my loaded
hatchback departs for the mountains. Sentinel ravens teeter in the
chilling air like drunken specters in a world of slate. The week's
heavy snows have forced the elk down from higher grounds and on the
flats beneath the canyon a herd of fifty are a stone's throw and a
barbed wire fence from the highway, their tawny hides clumped tight
against the storm as two cows rear up magnificently equine to heights
of ten feet at least and brandish front hooves at one another in
agitation, as if the very beating heart of western wildness were
pumping their thick crimson arteries.
I must temper forethought and footloose
enthusiasm as I reach the slowly rising curves of the canyon, the
road narrowing and its surface a steady progression of icy
deathtraps. Snow now peppers the windshield with greater intensity,
its vertiginous onslaught jarring my thoughts toward the reality that
it is a year to the day since three young men from my alma mater,
from the same ultimate frisbee community which cradled and challenged
me, lost their lives on an icy road, on their way to a weekend of
passionate recreation. Also arriving is the moment earlier this day
when sorting through old paperwork I stumbled upon the name of a
protege and friend of my own from a summer past who fell to his
too-young death climbing in the Cascades. How insignificant our lifespans, how
reckless and taunting of the world's destructive potential that we
should choose these jagged and indifferent mountains, this wild
season of icy abandon, as our playground.
The lump in my throat lends focus to
the driving and I remember the words of an ex-teammate and budding
novelist after the accident, his postulation that the afterlife might
just as likely as anything else consist of a perpetual residence in
the emotions and actions of our final earthly moments, and that in
such a habitation those three boys were bound to all the zealous
anticipation of vigorous and youthful exercise, the iron security and
uplift of manly comradeship. I fish for a distant quote saying how we
live each day is the truth of our existence and I realize that skiing
may be trivial to the arc of nobility or justice but that it holds
too those moments of urgent vitality which I cannot replicate
elsewhere, that the pursuit of its mastery in the company of friends
is as good a thing to love and chase as any.
It is fully dark by the time I creep up
Palo Flechado Pass, the snow pelleted and insistent. I will not begin
the winding descent I have been dreading yet – traffic is stopped
and the creased friendly face under a ballcap and thick yellow
slicker says through the icefall they're cleaning up a wreck at the
first hairpin but it should only be a few minutes more. I sit in the
carheat watching the flakes melt as they hit the defrosted
windshield, the rivulets twisting downward like ski lines, like the
unknowable pathways of life.
It is an easy descent once it begins,
the slow procession of backed-up vehicles down the red-salted road an
unforeseen gift of forced temperance. I reach Bill's just after the
Santa Feans, their own travel a harrowing slog up the frozen curves
of the Rio Grande Canyon. The abrazos are numerous and heartfelt,
soon we're drinking beer and eating hot dogs, but there is a modest
and urgent reverence among our company as we watch the snow pile
outside and wonder incredulously at the forecast. A foot and a half
already, and we're two thousand feet below the base of
the mountain.
I haven't seen this in years, Bill
says, and he means it. We might not see it again for even longer, Sam
replies.
At 2:45 the air mattress is sagging and
my mind is racing out of a canyon of icy dreams and into the dark
living room. There is no logical reason why one experiences a
soldier's insomnia the night before a powder day but it must be some
torturous sign that skiing has invaded you to the core. I slide in
and out of sleep for another three and a half hours before the alarms
start sounding and we're up and out. Scant breakfast, slammed coffee,
layers, hushed conversation and away. Climbing the canyon by 7:30,
ahead of the crowds from points south. The envelope of cloud on
mountain is absolute. It is as if we are entering a reality absolved
from time and space where ravens, dark trees, snow and snow and snow
have never ceased to exist and will not ever.
The throng awaiting first chair swells into the hundreds as eight approaches nine but we are near its front. Patrollers
come down from invisible heights, their beards bombarded by ice and
frost, like grave and haggard beasts returning to morning from the
fathoms of endless night. The chairs will not all be running today,
they tell us, but we will do our best. It's slow going up there.
Finally the bell sounds as if to start a derby, cheers rise up from
the congregated faithful, and we are carried foursome by foursome
into the sea of cloud and snow. As we approach the first lift's terminus,
four figures explode onto the steep run below us like superheroes of
the populace, greeted by more cheers from every rider within view.
Each of their turns pours a new cascade of snow downward and they are
dolphins breaking the milky dormant surface, torchbearers for the devotees
soon to follow their wake.
A quick and tantalizing groomer to the
base of the next chair, a shorter wait, the ascent to the top, and
then it begins.
The terrain of Taos Ski Valley is a
connoisseur’s delight, a Stravinsky in a world of wheezing
compositions. The mountain easily boasts two dozen expert runs the
steepness and technicality of which can be approached only by a
single pitch or two at nearly all other North American resorts. Many
a brilliant skier from across the world has pilgrimed to Taos, and
many have never left afterward. One is Alain Veth, former slalom and
giant slalom champion of France, who is now raising a family of
skiers while owning a quaint tune shop on the mountain. At eight this
morning, I picked up my skis from Alain after their midseason checkup
and discussing the snowfall the rapid excitement in his accent was
more schoolboy than Olympian. Standing now atop Upper Pollux, gazing
down at a line of deep, tight turns between aspens and snow-saddled
firs, it strikes that I'm about to ski as majestic a run as any slope
in the world could offer at this moment. But there is no time for
sentiment at the drop-in.
I have skied deep snow before and
turned my way down many a steep aspect on just the right side of
control, but such a combination of pitch and powder I have never
known. Turn after bottomless turn erupts beneath my skis, the trees a
passing rush in the breeze, the midweight snow a tumbling pillow beneath like
falling through a white dreamworld of deadened gravity. Now Sam and I
are hugging and high-fiving at the bottom of the glade like giddy
Christmas morning siblings and the day becomes a blur of adrenaline
joy. Pipeline, Lorelei, Edelweiss. Werner's, Longhorn, Jean's. One
after another, our skis pour down familiar runs with unfamiliar
grace. It is the harmony of mind and body and equipment with the
ancient landscape, the momentary inclusion in the nameless truth of
the mountain. And it is fleeting and nearly untenable like all of the
world's most pure things.
There is terrain which remains
unexplored through the morning: the Highline Ridge and the West Basin, accessed only by hiking up from the topmost lift. With the highs of
Taos' extreme slopes come the sobering reality of their destructive
potential, never more grave than after a massive and sudden storm
like this. Since dawn, patrollers have been testing the terrain, the
echoing crashes of their grenades periodic through the day as they
seek to trigger loose snow from the hidden empty faces. With our
season passes, we have bought the peace of mind that anywhere we ski
has been deemed safe. For their paychecks, the patrollers battle the
haunting and capricious monster of the avalanche.
The unequaled rock-strewn chutes of
the West Basin will remain closed through this storm, along with the
sprawling face of Kachina Peak and its new summit-reaching chairlift,
a poetic mockery by nature of the ski industry's best laid plans. By
midday the Highline Ridge has been cleared however and we embark on
the climb with the unfortunate haste of children rushing toward a
plate with not enough cookies for everyone. There's a saying for it –
no friends on a powder day. The race for first tracks seems churlish,
infantile even, to the onlooker who has not been hooked by the lure
of untouched descent. But the rush of anticipation has us motoring
our boots upward with doubled effort, bent on finding that immaculate
line.
Eclipsing treeline, all forethought
ceases. We hit the ridge and an assault of wind and precipitation
renders visibility and hearing near naught. The conditions on the
resort below seem a plaything – ice and snow lambast from all
angles like the million daggers of some Norse necromancer or crooked
deity of violence and frigidity. I lose sight of the path and stumble
into a chest-high drift of snow, all of a sudden swimming alone in
this mad white world, legs and feet and skis fighting to slog through
the weight of the misstep. Out of the drift finally, there's a quick
uptick in visibility and it's just me and the ridge. Sam, the only
one ahead, must have already dropped down into his line. I reach a
good spot on the envisioned cornice and it's now or never. I launch
forward and land eight feet down like lovers on a feather bed. One,
two, five swooping and unforgettable turns have me down the first
wall. A hundred-foot traverse and I'm in the shelter of the trees.
Cutting left from the few tracks ahead of me, I drop into an
unchristened line through a favorite stretch of glade, the turns
flowing by effortlessly, the mind emptied, time an alien thing. When
the run drains out onto the trafficked resort, it comes as a jarring
surprise, as if the raw new world above were made to extend
infinitely. But there's Sam, beaming and telling me without hint of
hyperbole that was the greatest ski run of his life and me staring at
my skis, at the snow, at my friend, without breath or cause to
refute.
The afternoon winds its way on like the
second act of a winter ballet. We ski hard until the end, catching
our last chair at 3:57 for a victory lap with Bill. With the snow
continuing, an evening of exhaustion and exultation finds us asleep
by ten and collective soreness makes for a slower morning as we wind
back up the canyon in an ant-like parade of trucks and Subarus. The
word must have gotten out. But it is the mountain and not the people
which will have the final dictum on Sunday. A big slide in the West
Basin overnight has shut down one side of the resort, while the
entire Kachina drainage is too unpredictable for opening. Skiing will be
bottlenecked to the lower front side for the morning if not the
entire day, the resulting lift lines bringing anxious visions of
Summit County to many. But Taos has a final gift amid the
turbulence as we watch patrol drop the rope and the season's first
skiers traverse into North American, a steep glade which twists 1,500
vertical feet down the resort's front side, culminating in two narrow
chokes requiring current snow depths for safety. By the time we're off the lift and reach
the top of it, we are hardly the first to enter, but the snow remains
pillowed between the naked aspens and the crowd inside whooping like
questers in a revival tent. Delving into some inner reserve, the legs
gather strength for a last hurrah. They pump like pistons once more
as I charge down through the great grove, washed with gratitude, and
maybe it's just my imagination but the sky seems a tick brighter as I
course into the turns below.